Yes. We wouldn't state it if we couldn't' do it. This is a proven system reduced in size from my commercial operation that supplied three grocery store chains with their organic produce.

A 4' x 8' Free Standing Garden Master Bucket Garden will provide a family of 4 with their daily nutritional needs, food storage and some for barter. This system has 36 growing bags.

A 4' x 16' Free Standing Garden Master Bucket Garden will provide a family of 8 with their daily nutritional needs, food storage and some for barter. This system has 72 growing bags.

No. You should start with a 4' x 8' Garden Master Bucket Garden and cycle into a 100% production. You can share with family and friends or sell or barter with your excess production or reduce your planting density.

Yes. More could be grown than you could ever eat. You plant and manage your Bucket Garden based on the fruits and vegetables that you like in balance with your nutritional needs.

A minimum of 10 to 15 days. See PDF #0, #1& #3 in every Garden Master Newsletter and PDF # 2 on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Shade cloth is not necessary once the Bucket Garden is in full cycle. A plastic cover increases the production per square foot of your garden in the cooler months. So, yes I do recommend it.

The answer to your question is subjective. Water unit costs vary across the globe. Seed cost also varies and would depend on the vegetable mix, supplier and the gardener’s skills as they relate to proper seed storage. Hopefully you are not using fertilizer on your Bucket Garden and are instead using The Garden Master’s organic based nutrients. What is objective is the maximum amount of water you should be using per growing bag per day, which is 1 gallon. What is also objective is the amount and cost of The Garden Master’s organic based nutrients you use per 4’ x 8’ Bucket Garden per month. You should be using approximately 1 pint of mixed nutrient solution per month on a 4’ x 8’ Garden Master Bucket Garden. At the current price of $15.46 per 8 ounces it will cost approximately $1.25 per month in nutrients to feed your garden. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

At the current Garden Master Nutrient price of $15.46 per 8 ounces and using approximately 1 pint of mixed nutrient solution per feeding per month on a 4’ x 8’ Garden Master Bucket Garden, the cost per month in nutrients would be $1.25. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

You are farming the sun for maximum production, so the more direct sun available to the plants the higher your production. So yes, direct sun all day is ideal. However, a minimum of 4 hours of direct sun on the Bucket Garden in addition to nutrient adjustments will produce very well.

This will depend on the Bucket Garden design. If the garden is a 4’ x 8’ or larger Garden Master Bucket Garden, it should be placed a minimum of 3’ away from the block wall. If it is a modified 2’x 16’, 32’, ect., it will be 4” to 6” from the wall with the reconfigured trellis system shading the wall.

No, the concrete that is covered by the garden is not an issue and the concrete around the garden absorbs and radiates heat at about the same rate as dirt. The irrigation system in addition to the developed plant canopy, formed by the growing garden crops, creates the micro environment that cools the root zone and the ambient area above the root zone.

What is soil? It is various compositions of sand, clay and organic matter, with the organic matter content of good soil being around 5%. The Garden Master’s Growing System starts with bedding sand. What is bedding sand? It is a sterile, as it relates to weed seed and pathogens, composition of sand and clay, with the organic matter incorporated via the growing system to the level of approximately 25% to 30% turning it into live rich sandy loam. Sandy loam is the most ideal natural growing medium there is. Also see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

12 to 18 months depending on the gardener’s skill level. Also see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes. You can incorporate worms as soon as you begin top dressing with your compost. Also see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

No, not initially. The bedding sand must first be turned into sandy loam and even then some nutrient application will be required to replace the nutrients you are consuming. Also see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

It takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours to completely install 4 x 8 Bucket Garden with 6 to 8 capable people working together.

Spray the grass with a mixture of 1 ounce of Roundup and 1 ounce of brown apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Wait 3 to 5 days and then scalp the grass area down to the dirt with a weed eater. Dig a trench from the current sprinkler location to the new desired location. Remove the dirt around the sprinkler and unscrew the sprinkler body. Using 1/2 inch poly line long enough to reach from the current sprinkler location to the new location and 2 barbed elbow fittings, barb x male pipe threads, install one elbow into the bottom of the sprinkler and one elbow into the sprinkler supply line “T”. Then attach one end of the ½” poly line to the sprinkler and the other end to the sprinkler supply line. Now set the sprinkler in the new location and fill the trench halfway and around the sprinkler with bedding sand and top it off with dirt. Also see PDF # 1 on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

No. The Garden Master Bucket Garden System uses a state-of-the-art irrigation computer with latching solenoid technology. This system runs on one 9 volt battery for over a year. No outside power source is required. It is a stand alone system. Your typical landscape irrigation timers run on your home power of 115 volts. When there is a power spike or power failure the irrigation timer shuts down putting your garden at risk. The 9 volt battery in you landscape irrigation timer only protects the factor default program. It does not run the system. Please see PDF # 5 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter in addition to the newsletter itself.

Yes. However, the true length of a 4’ x 16’ Free Standing Bucket Garden when correctly installed is 12’6”. We use the greenhouse foot print of a Bucket Garden as the stated measurement to prevent confusion between the different Bucket Garden sizes.

Yes, use the shaping bucket that comes with the Bucket Garden Kit which is 90 mil. If the bags are a little tight on the 90 mil bucket you can purchase additional 70 mil buckets from your local hardware, garden and lumber box stores and cut the bottoms out leaving at least ¼” of the bottom around the perimeter of the bucket for strength. This will give you 20 mil of additional room for slipping the bags on.

Where do I buy seeds for planting?

No, use a 72 count flat with 36 mm Jiffy pellets as your system for growing transplants. Also see PDF # 2 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter in addition to the newsletter itself.

It means using 72 flat with 36 mm Jiffy pellets and the Garden Master Nutrients to grow your transplants. Please see PDF # 2 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter in addition to the newsletter itself and PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

That depends on what you are planting. Most all Primary crops should be planted as transplants. The exception would be peas and beans when grown as Primary crops. Using transplants increases garden production by eliminating initial transplant growing time in the garden. Most all Secondary crop seeds would be planted directly into the garden. The exception can be lettuce and spinach, which can be transplanted as transplant plugs. Transplant plugs are transplants with a 5/8” and smaller root ball. The other exception can be onions, which can be planted as onion sets. You can start you transplants in you home.

Please see PDF # B and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

You should be using the Bucket Garden spacing recommendations. Please see PDF # 5 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter in addition to the newsletter itself and PDF # C, # D and # 4, # 5 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

The vacuum seeder is not used for the panting of the Primary crops. It is used only for Secondary crop planting. The planting depths are specific to the Bucket Garden and should be followed regardless of the depth information on the seed packets.

The spacing recommendation on the seed packets apply to conventional gardening. If you are growing in a Bucket Garden you are not using conventional gardening practices or philosophies. You should be using the Bucket Garden spacing recommendations. Please see PDF # 5 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter in addition to the newsletter itself and PDF # C, # D and # 4, # 5 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Yes. Please see PDF # B and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Yes, hybrids are created by cross breeding varieties with individual desirable traits to create one new variety with all of the desirable traits. The traits generally include production, shelf life, appearance, pest resistance and flavor. However, the seed from hybrid varieties will not produce offspring true to the parent. Heirloom varieties produce offspring true to the parent. You would use heirloom varieties to produce your own hybrids. Both are important to sustainability and should be incorporated into your long term plan and food storage.

There are literally hundreds of fruit and vegetable varieties. The Monthly Planting Guide is a small representation of what can be planted. Planting dates will be the same for all summer crops as they would be for all winter crops. Please see PDF # E on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

The leggy plants is caused by inadequate lighting and the falling over is due to damping off. You have not provided any pictures or information as to what your growing system looks like so it is difficult to diagnose your challenge. When starting seeds you need a location that has consistent moisture, temperature of 90° and light during the day. Ideally you would use a heating mat under the growing flat and a grow light above the flat. Keeping the grow light adjusted high enough above the plants as they grow to prevent heat damage. With a florescent grow light that would be 1’ to 2’ above the plants. If you do not have these growing tools then place your growing flat in a consistently warm area during the evening like the top of a refrigerator or in a warm location in your home or shop. During the day place the growing tray outside in direct sun for 10 to 15 minutes, this will allow the UV rays of the sun to sterilize the soil surface to prevent dampening off, and then move the tray to a partially sunny and warm area of your front or back porch keeping the clear greenhouse cover adjusted on the growing flat to prevent over heating. In the late afternoon take the growing tray back inside and repeat this process every day.

You don’t. If you are planting beans or peas as a Primary crop you would plant 2 seeds per hole in 4 holes evenly spaced across the center of the bag. If you are planting cucumbers, melons, winter squash and pumpkins as a Primary crop you would plant 2 seeds in 1 hole in the center of the bag. When you plant Secondaries you would plant 1 to 2 seeds per hole in 14 holes on each side of the Primary plant/s for a total of 28 holes per growing bag. You do not thin the plants when they emerge, which is why you do not see anything mentioned about thinning.

You don’t thin. If you are planting beans or peas as a Primary crop you would plant 2 seeds per hole in 4 holes evenly spaced across the center of the bag. If you are planting cucumbers, melon, winter squash and pumpkins as a Primary crop you would plant 2 seeds in 1 hole in the center of the bag. When you plant Secondaries you would plant 1 to 2 seeds per hole in 14 holes on each side of the Primary plant/s for a total of 28 holes per growing bag. You do not thin the plants when they emerge, which is why you do not see anything mentioned about thinning.

Yes, that is why the instructions say to do so.

Yes.

The vacuum seeder will naturally pickup approximately 2 seeds per hole and drop 2 seeds per hole when you cut the vacuum.

No, just follow the instruction. In The Garden Master Bucket Garden we use grow bags not buckets. Please see PDF # 5 and # 6 on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com

Potatoes are one of those vegetables that are not an efficient use of space in a standard Bucket Garden. With the addition of the special designed Garden Master Potato Bags you would plant 6 pair of eyes per bag.

Yes.

You would read and follow the Key at the bottom left corner of the Monthly Planting Guide. Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

There are a multitude of seed sources from your local garden centers to purchasing online. Be sure to purchase only new seed and seed that is stored in a protected or condition space. Know your supplier and their standards. Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

You start the system incrementally at the rate of 20% to 30% every 2 weeks per the instructions. You roll into each eminent season/succession as the useful life of the existing Primary plants comes to an end. You are always planting and always harvesting. The Garden Master Bucket Garden Growing System is not a monoculture system like your conventional earth and box gardens.

You follow the Planting Schematics and the Monthly Planting Guilds. I would never personally plant an artichoke in a Bucket Garden, because it is not an efficient use of the garden space. It is shown on the Planting Schematics because many people have asked where they should plant it if they choose to do so. If I were to plant an artichoke in the Bucket Garden then I would plant it in an outside northwest corner as a Primary with green onions as the Secondary as is shown on the Planting Schematic. This location would allow the plant to roll out into the area outside the foot print of the Bucket Garden for the space it needed. Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

No. Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Plants are removed when they have reached the end of their useful life. That is to say, remove them when their production no longer justifies their place in the garden.

Either strategy will work. However, you will find you will naturally change do to the evolving pattern as you roll through the cycles.

There should not be potting medium in the growing bags if you are growing your own transplant the Garden Master way. However, as the decomposing organic matter increases in the sandy loam to 25% to 30% you will be removing some medium as you transplant. This is done to maintain the growing medium at the level of 1” below the top edge of the growing bag.

No.

Ok, what are your questions? Please see PDF # 4 on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and PDF # 1 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter. Pay close attention to the Key in the bottom left hand corner of each Monthly Planting Guide.

Tomatoes and strawberries.

The companions that have been researched on my farm for over 40 years will not be found on the internet. If you have question regarding a potential companion, just ask at INFO@TheBucketGardens.com. There are literally hundreds of fruit and vegetable varieties. The Monthly Planting Guide is a small representation of what can be planted. However, you will find a larger and more complete list of fruits and vegetables in the information listed in PDF # E. Planting dates will be the same for all summer crops as they would be for all winter crops. In general what are know as winter crops are Secondaries barring a few like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and brussels sprouts and what are known as summer crops are Primaries barring a few like peas, beans, strawberries and okra. Please see PDF # E on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and PDF # 1 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter.

This depends on the time of year and variety. Cucumbers are grown in the center bags and trained on the east side of the trellis system on a north/south configuration and on the north side of the trellis system on an east/west configuration. Melons are grown in the southwest center end of the Bucker Garden and trained on the west side of the trellis system in addition to over the top of the greenhouse structure, or eight level of the vertical stack on a north/south configuration and on the west center of a east/west configuration and trained on the south side of the trellis system and over the top of the greenhouse structure, or eight level of the vertical stack. Winter squash are grown in the same configuration as the melons. Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Please see PDF # B, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Yes. We wouldn’t state it if we couldn’t’ do it. This is a proven system reduced in size from my commercial operation that supplied three grocery store chains with their organic produce. Unlike most of what you see around you this not a hobby gardener’s back yard experiment. The Secondary crops, which are also known as winter crops require 1/3 to 1/2 less direct sunlight hours as required by the Primary crops. Their nutrient, placement in the Bucket Garden and placement in time is key. This is not a hobby or a fade. This is a science. Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

No. Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes. We wouldn’t state it if we couldn’t’ do it. This is a proven system reduced in size from my commercial operation that supplied three grocery store chains with their organic produce. Unlike most of what you see around you this not a hobby gardener’s back yard experiment. The vine crops in winter are less dense than summer vine crops because there is one less level in the vertical stack. Their nutrient, placement in the Bucket Garden and placement in time is key. This is not a hobby or a fade. This is a science. Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes, unless your squash is a hybrid bush it would be a vine. This includes zucchini, crookneck and patty pan. From your description of the plant it would indicate a nitrogen excess do to commercial fertilizers. In the Bucket Garden the summer squash would be grown vertical on a string while removing lower leaves as it grew. The vegetables are also grown with a balance organic nutrient for optimum production instead of foliage over growth.

I would never personally plant an artichoke in a Bucket Garden, because it is not an efficient use of the garden space. It is shown on the Planting Schematics because many people have asked where they should plant it if they choose to do so. If I were to plant an artichoke in the Bucket Garden then I would plant it in on an outside northwest corner as a Primary with green onions as the Secondary as is shown on the Planting Schematic. This location would allow the plant to roll out into the area outside the foot print of the Bucket Garden for the space it needed. Please see PDF # B, # 5, # 6 and the Monthly Planting Guides on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

No, you will create your own schematic using the VegList as an information source. Many folks make the planting schematic more difficult than it is. The schematic is an example of companions and planting and growing patterns. Focus on the growing patterns as it relates to the plants light and space requirements. Do not get caught up in the specific plants in specific locations on the schematics. You can substitute plants of like or similar requirements for the plants used as an example on the schematics. There are literally hundreds of fruit and vegetable varieties. You plan your garden based on what you like to eat and the amount you consume on a daily or weekly basis. Planting dates will be the same for all summer crops as they would be for all winter crops. In general what are know as winter crops are Secondaries barring a few like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and brussels sprouts and what are known as summer crops are Primaries barring a few like peas, beans, strawberries and okra. The companions that have been researched on my farm for over 40 years will not be found on the internet. If you have question regarding a potential companion, just ask at INFO@TheBucketGardens.com. The Monthly Planting Guide is a small representation of what can be planted.

In general I am talking about different bags. However, there are some exceptions like peppers, potatoes and strong herbs. Peppers and potatoes would be planted on the opposite end of the garden from tomatoes. Strong herbs would be planted on the opposite end of the garden from melons and cucumbers.

Some plants release compounds, like peppers and strong herbs, which inhibit the growth and/or production of other plants planted near them. On the flip side some plants release compounds, like beans and peas, which benefit the growth and/or production of other plants. For a more detailed explanation on this subject please see “The Science Of Companion Planting In The Garden Master’s Growing System” discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes. All summer squash would be one plant per growing bag grown vertically.

This is not a bad practice and you can use it in the Bucket Garden, but it is not necessary.

At the current Garden Master Nutrient price of $15.46 per 8 ounces and using approximately 1 pint of mixed nutrient solution per feeding per month on a 4’ x 8’ Garden Master Bucket Garden, the cost per month in nutrients would be $1.25. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes. 1 pint of mixed nutrient solution per feeding.

The nutrients do not come with the Bucket Garden Kit. They must be purchase separately. The seasonal nutrients, #1, #2, #3 and #4 will last up to 4 years if used per instructions on a 4’ x 8’ Bucket Garden. The base nutrients, # 5A & # 5B will last up to 3 years if used per instructions on a 4’ x 8’ Bucket Garden. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussions on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Yes. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussions on The Garden Master Facebook page.

You would switch per the instructions. Yes you can purchase all 5 at one time if you would like. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and “What Should I Be Doing In My Garden” in every Garden Master Newsletter. Also see Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

No, you can use any nutrient or fertilizer that you would like. However, the Garden Master Nutrient has been developed over the last 40 years on a commercial organic farm specifically for the Garden Master’s Growing System and is adjusted specifically for your gardening area. Commercial nutrients and fertilizers are not. They are designed as products in general that attempt to meet everyone’s needs. However, they do not. Commercial fertilizers do not have micro minerals and nutrients deficient in your area and food. The Garden Master Nutrients do. The Garden Master’s Bucket Garden is a designed and complete growing system and the result of 40 years of detailed in depth research and development on an operating commercial organic farm that supplied three grocery store chains their organic produce. With the Bucket Garden System you will be composting. Composting is an important and necessary component of the Garden Master’s Growing System. Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page. If you change the system you will change the results.

Per the instructions we are changing the pH of the water we use for mixing nutrients and the water we use for the initial growing bag flush. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

The time required to gain an understanding of the Garden Master’s Growing System would be predicated on the individual’s abilities. However, the instructions are detailed and when followed closely will tighten the learning curve for everyone. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

No. Rain is acidic and actually benefits the soil pH by lowering it.

It is not necessary to avoid the fruit when spraying the nutrient solution. Just don’t spray it directly if possible. The fruit is eatable after 3 days. If you need to harvest the fruit before that time simply wash it before consumption. You can consume any produce 1 hour after being sprayed with nutrient provided you wash it first. If you do not wash it the residual nutrient can affect flavor.

It is not necessary to avoid the fruit when spraying the nutrient solution. Just don’t spray it directly if possible. The fruit is eatable after 3 days. If you need to harvest the fruit before that time simply wash it before consumption. You can consume any produce 1 hour after being sprayed with nutrient provided you wash it first. If you do not wash it the residual nutrient can affect flavor.

If the plants are in the garden they are all on the same feeding cycle. Don’t be concerned with the Secondaries planted from seed. Do not spray them (new seedlings) directly. The mist that falls on them will be adequate.

No, not grow and produce nutritious fruits and vegetables at optimum. Plants cannot grow and produce nutritious fruits and vegetables at optimum in any growing medium without a balanced and consistent nutrient supply. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion 1 through 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

We do not use fertilizer or just sand. We use organic nutrients and start with bedding sand. We do not feed the bedding sand in the Bucket Garden with the Garden Master’s Nutrient. We feed the plant through the foliage with the nutrients and we feed the bedding sand with compost. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion 1 through 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Follow the instructions in “The Garden Master Organic Nutrient Application”. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion 1 through 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

We do not use fertilizers in the Garden Master Bucket Garden. We use organic nutrients. If you over apply your nutrient solution to a plant during one application, no you would not over feed the plant. You would just be wasting the nutrient solution as it ran off the plant. If you apply your nutrient solution to a plant on multiple occasions in a short period of time, yes you can over feed the plants. You should feed your garden per the instructions. That is why they are there for you. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion 1 through 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page.

This can indicate a couple of things. The pH may be too acidic and/or you are applying a spray instead of a mist. Be sure that your hand held pressure sprayer is kept pumped up during spraying and your adjustable pray tip is adjusted to a fine mist. You can also spray off the plant foliage with clean water 30 minutes after your nutrient application if you have not yet mastered the art of foliar feeding.

Yes. However the application rate is higher. Sweet corn is a heavy nitrogen feeder so you would double your application rate and feed the sweet corn twice a month instead of once a month.

I will assume you mean gardens in the ground verses in the Bucket Garden. Yes, foliar feeding is the most cost effective and the most balanced way to feed the plants. Only 8% to 12% of the nutrients fed through the soil and the roots system are absorbed by the plant. Where as 85% to 95% of the nutrients you apply to the foliage through foliar feeding are absorbed by the plants and are distributed throughout the plant within one hour. The Garden Master Nutrient has been developed over the last 40 years on a commercial organic farm specifically for the Garden Master’s Growing System and is adjusted specifically for your gardening area. Commercial nutrients and fertilizers are not. They are designed as products in general that attempt to meet everyone’s needs. However, they do not. Commercial fertilizers do not have micro minerals and nutrients deficient in your area and food. The Garden Master Nutrients do. The Garden Master’s Bucket Garden is a designed and complete growing system and the result of 40 years of detailed in depth research and development on an operating commercial organic farm that supplied three grocery store chains their organic produce. With the Bucket Garden you will also be composting. Composting is an important and necessary component of the Garden Master’s Growing System. So you decide. Do you want to buy from the “greenhouse mega store”? Please see Discussion # 1 through # 6 on The Garden Master Facebook page. If you change the system you will change the results. The Garden Master’s Organic Nutrients are very effective on all types of gardens.

Some of the benefits of using organic nutrients verses commercial fertilizers would be sustainability, lower cost, more efficient, more nutritious fruits and vegetables, not petroleum dependent, smaller carbon footprint, no negative environmental impact and no negative human impact. Of course this is the short version.

Yes. Broccoli in particular is a heavy nitrogen feeder.

The bags shouldn’t be flushed until after the Bucket Garden is planted and the plants have grown to their 2nd to 3rd leaf stage.

Yes. However, on citrus you would adjust the nutrient solution to a pH of 5.0.

Yes. E-mail INFO@TheBucketGardens.com for specific plant formulas and pH.

Your compost will carry you for a short time. However, the seasonal nutrients, #1, #2, #3 and #4 will last up to 4 years if used per instructions on a 4’ x 8’ Bucket Garden. The base nutrients, # 5A & # 5B will last up to 3 years if used per instructions on a 4’ x 8’ Bucket Garden. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and Discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.

Water is only on very rare occasion increased or decreased. It remains at 1 minute 4 times a day. 6:00 am, 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm.

Only on very rare occasion and circumstances is the water duration increased or decreased. It remains at 1 minute 4 times a day. 6:00 am, 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm.

The Bucket Garden can never be over watered in the context of root suffocation and plant damage unless it is totally submerged in water for more than 3 days. However, they can be over watered in the context of too long of a watering duration and/or multiple durations in a short period of time, which would over cool the root zone in certain times of the year causing nutrient deficiencies, stunted growth and unrecoverable plant damage. Heavy rains will not inhibit the Bucket Garden’s health. All water beyond the holding capacity of the sandy loam is drained away immediately. The developed sandy loam in the growing bags has the perfect water holding capacity, oxygen exchange and root zone temperature buffer.

There are many possible causes to the symptoms you describe. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. However, some of the causes are inconsistent watering, uneven watering, insufficient water, excessive water, lack of pollinators, high root zone & ambient temperatures, low root zone & ambient temperatures, calcium deficiency, plant damage, insect damage and general nutrient deficiencies. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

There are many possible causes for the symptoms you describe including inconsistent watering, uneven watering, insufficient water, excessive water, lack of pollinators, high root zone & ambient temperatures, low root zone & ambient temperatures, calcium deficiency, plant damage, insect damage and general nutrient deficiencies. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

The month is not the determining factor. The daytime and night time root zone and ambient temperatures dictate the longevity of the peas, which can be different every year. Peas are a cool season crop with an ideal root zone temperature of between 55°& 65° in a conventional garden. When the temperature begins to exceed 80° to 90° in the Bucket Garden the plants will begin to die back.

There are many possible causes for the symptoms you describe including low water, uneven watering, plant age, high root zone temperatures and high ambient temperatures. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

If # 6 was not used as directed and/or the foliar feeding is not being applied as directed, yes that could be the cause. However, there are many other possible causes for the symptoms you describe including low water, uneven watering, plant age, high root zone temperatures and high ambient temperatures. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

If the foliar feeding is not being applied as directed, that could be one cause. However, there are many other possible causes for the symptoms you describe including low water, uneven watering, plant age, high root zone temperatures and high ambient temperatures. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com

Optimum growth and development requires optimum nutrition and growing environment conditions.

What you are describing is called bolting. In other words, the cauliflower is actually a flower and is beginning to bloom. Bolting is triggered by high root zone and ambient temperatures. Ideal growing range is 65° to 80° during the day and 50° to 65° at night. However, there are many other possible causes for the symptoms you describe including low water, uneven watering and plant age. An accurate diagnosis for your specific challenge cannot be done without more information. Please see PDF # D on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com.

Secondaries do not affect the schedule provided they are planted to mature within the Primaries growing range.

That of coarse depends on the pest. In general Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is used for caterpillars, loopers, cabbage worms, horn worms, leaf folders and leaf rollers (chewing insects). Pyrethrin with neem oil are used for the mealy bug, beet armyworm, aphids, the cabbage worm, thrips, whiteflies, mites, fungus gnats, beetles, moth larvae, mushroom flies, leaf miners, caterpillars, locust, nematodes and the Japanese beetle. Sulfur, copper, neem oil and streptomyces lydicus are used for soil born and leaf diseases like pythium, fusarium and powdery mildew.

Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is the best control with Spinosad being second.

Yes, netting is the most cost effective.

After the initial installation of the Bucket Garden you should spend on average about 15 minutes a day to maintain it.

Yes. It remains at 1 minute 4 times a day. 6:00 am, 12:00 pm, 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm.

Unless your squash is a hybrid bush it would be a vine. This includes zucchini, crookneck and patty pan. In the Bucket Garden the summer squash would be grown vertical on a string while removing lower leaves as it grew. The vegetables are also grown with a balance organic nutrient for optimum production instead of foliage over growth.

Yes, provide the root system is healthy and it is producing new growth at the base.

Plants should be removed when they have reached the end of their useful life. That is to say, remove them when their production no longer justifies their place in the garden.

In The Garden Master Power Composter you maintain a carbon & nitrogen balance of 30:1 while incorporating oxygen and moisture through turning daily to maintain a healthy aerobic digestion, which creates the temperatures of 135° to 160° necessary to kill harmful pathogens, insects and seeds. Your carbon material would be the brown organic materials. Generally this material has a 50:1 ratio. These materials provide the energy for the microbes. The oxygenation of carbon by the microbes is what produces the heat. Your nitrogen material would be your green, colorful and moist material. Generally this material has a 15:1 ratio. These materials provide the food necessary to feed and produce more microbes to oxidize the carbon.

The factors that are more important are available materials, quantity, carbon ratio, nitrogen ratio, oxygen availability, moisture and the management of the same. Although mass helps in maintaining temperature it can also act as a deterrent to oxygen and moisture availability. Whether a composting system can be turned efficiently to reincorporated oxygen and moisture will dictate the digestion time and quality. Turning your compost daily is ideal. What can you effectively manage correctly is the real question. That is to say, if an efficient composting system produces compost in 12 to 14 days the amount of carbon and nitrogen material you accumulate in that time would dictate the size of system you need.

You can initially use a small amount of your mixed nutrient solution as the moisture added to your compost and/or you can add a handful of your finished compost.

What compost do we buy if we don't have enough of our own?

We do not use shade cloth in the Garden Master Bucket Garden Growing System. It is not necessary. Have you ever seen shade cloth being used in the fields on the vegetable farms along the road? Why would you use it in your gardens? The use of shade cloth in a garden is a sign of a mismanaged garden.

When installed and managed correctly The Garden Master Bucket Garden is not affected by the Arizona heat or the heat in any other area of the world for that matter.

Indefinitely if you change out old plants with the new runners you produce from the health plants.

That depends on the type of strawberry. There are the June-bearing that produce for about 14 days between April and June. There are the Ever-bearing that produce in the spring and in the fall and if conditions are ideal they will produce a third time. There are the Day-neutral that will produce as long as the temperatures are between 35° and 85°. However, the fruit are smaller that the June-Bearing and the Ever-Bearing.

Yes strawberries can be grown just about anywhere with the proper care. There are hundreds of varieties but the three most commonly June-bearing varieties grown Arizona are the Sequoia, Camarosa and Chandler. The most common Ever-bearing varieties include Gem, Streamliner, Ozark Beauty and Douglas.

Yes, absolutely. Please see PDF # 0 at the bottom of every Garden Master Newsletter.

Just dig in and get started and follow a plan. If you make mistakes that’s ok, it isn’t the end of the world. Use the qualified resources that are available to you through the Garden Master and have fun, but pay attention to the details and ask questions.

The top three gardener errors are incorrect watering, incorrect nutrient solution mix and incorrect nutrient solution application.

No. If buckets were the best container to use, that is what we would be using. Using five gallon buckets reduces the growing area by 60%. You can place 90 five gallon grow bags in the same space that you place 33 five gallon buckets due to the placement process. This provides 60% more growing area thus 60% more production.

You can expect 10 to 15 years with these grow bags. In addition, when your Garden Master Bucket Garden is planted and in full cycle the grow bags are not exposed to the sun. They are covered by the garden’s plant canopy.

No. The purpose of wrapping and tying the leaves around cauliflower heads is to prevent yellowing from exposure to sun and is called blanching. Many varieties of hybrid cauliflower are self blanching. For those varieties that are not self blanching, you can manually wrap and tie the leaves to help prevent head yellowing. Bolting is a result of one or a combination of under watering or uneven watering, extended high temperatures and age.

Look for the correct color, physical attributes and age. They are different for each fruit and vegetable.

Butter crunch lettuce is a loose-leaf head lettuce variety that is generally harvested by removing the entire head.

This would depend on what you are calling a bad plant. If the root system is healthy and the only challenge with the top is that it is physically damage due to an outside source and not an internal issue then yes you could just cut the plant at about 10” above the soil line and allow it to regrow. However, generally you will be farther head to just replant.

The Garden Master does not use fertilizer, but instead uses organic nutrients. Using The Garden Master’s Organic Nutrients and following the instructions in “The Garden Master Organic Nutrient Application” document and the Garden Master Newsletter, apply the nutrient solution to the foliage after foliage development in the spring and then once each month thereafter through the month of June. Apply one more time after harvest. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and under “What Should I Be Doing In My Garden” in every Garden Master Newsletter.

Yes, for early potatoes or when the tubers are big enough to eat. However, if you are harvesting storage potatoes you should harvest two weeks after the potato tops die back.

Using The Garden Master’s Organic Nutrients and following the instructions in “The Garden Master Organic Nutrient Application” document and the Garden Master Newsletter, apply the nutrient solution to the foliage after foliage development in the spring and then once each month thereafter. Do not apply during bloom. Make one more application after fruit set and one more time after harvest. Please see PDF # C on The Bucket Garden page at www.TheGardenMaster.com and under “What Should I Be Doing In My Garden” in every Garden Master Newsletter.

All trees should be planted a minimum of 5’ away from all foundations and walls.

Yes it can however, the engineering is different.

Dedicate a plant for seed harvesting. After fruit set bag the fruit to protect it from pests. Allow the fruit to ripen completely for complete seed development. Please look for the “Gardening For Seed Production” discussion on The Garden Master Facebook page.